The Three Gifts

The Three Gifts

Gift Number 1 The Puppy

I’m old.  I’ve been given many gifts.  All were appreciated, just some more than others.  There was the time I got a set of pots and pans for my first birthday after I got married, but that is a story for another time.

The  three gifts of this story all came from Peru.  One was small.  One was tiny.  One was an attitude.  And all were priceless.

In 2003 I made my first trip to multiple villages as the leader of Peru Crew 1.  We had worked for an entire year to raise money for the Adopt A School program.  I first became involved with AAS on an adventure trip the year before and returned home determined to raise more money for more villages.

The first year we visited 20!! Villages.  20 villages in 12 days.

The very first gift I was given came from the village of Yurac Yacu.  This village is far back on a magnificent oxbow lake.  My group of 10 had finished our visit, participated in all the activities, danced the dances and hugged the children.

We were leaving the village.  We had walked down the hill and were helped into the boat.  I was leaning out the window of the boat and noticed three puppies playing at the water’s edge.  With my few words of Spanish in my normally effusive manner I burbled, “Perro!  Que bonita!”   “Puppy.  How pretty!”

At that a woman from the village slipped down the bank in her bare feet, reached into the water and scooped up a tiny black ball of dripping fur.  She handed it to me “Regalo,”  she said.  “Gift.”

I was moved.  But, I couldn’t take a dog home.  Armando, our guide, after a hurried conference said that the Napo lodge was in need of a new lodge dog.  The dog could stay with them and I could come and visit him.

So with that Pachito found a new home.  He was so small I could hold him in the palm of one hand.  He wasn’t like an American puppy, all wiggles and squirms.  He was uncharacteristically quiet.  I held him in my lap and when he began to shiver uncontrollably I slipped him under my shirt next to my bare skin for warmth.  There he stayed never moving until we stopped at the next village.

Reluctantly, I put him on the floor of the boat, told him I would return to him shortly and made the boat driver promise to look after him.  I must confess that even though our visit to the second village was lovely, I couldn’t give the villagers my proper attention.  I kept thinking about the little black bundle  waiting for me on the boat.

We took our leave of the village.  I waved goodbye, stepped aboard the boat and began to search the floor where I had left Pachito.  I searched everywhere.  Oh, no!  Gone.  I became, well, some might say hysterical or at the least overwrought, I would say concerned.

“Where is he?” I shouted at the hapless driver.  “Aqui, Senora Pachita.”  Here, Pachita. Our boat driver had found some dry rags and made the poor little thing a bed up in front of the boat in a more sheltered area where he would be warm.

From then on I knew he would be in good hands.  For the next three days while we were at the Napo lodge, I spent as much time with him as I could.  I took him to the hammock with me and sat with him and just watched while he drank from his little saucer of milk.

When we left for the next lodge I hugged him and promised to return.  I then promised Erlin, the Shaman who would be taking care of him, that I would keep in contact and make sure Pachito made it through the next few weeks, which are among the most crucial in the life of a dog in the Amazon.

Three months later I was informed he was a healthy growing puppy.  I sent him a care package.  I sent baby blankets and dog treats and even a puppy flea collar.  I’m sure when the workers opened the package when it arrived they thought about “Loca, Gringa!” “Crazy American!”

The following June when I returned to Napo I barely waited for the boat to dock before I bounded up the steps.  There, waiting for me were Erlin and Pachito.  Erlin turned to Pachito and said, “Pacho, aqui es su mama!”  “Pacho, here is your mom.”

Nine years later and Pacho still greets me every year.  He remembers me.  I sneak him chicken from the table and protect him from Raul, that evil trumpeter bird.

Gift Number 2  The Stone

2005 Peru Crew 3

My third trip with the Crew.  Every year the members of the Crew change.  The Peru Crew is comprised of people who can fund their own way down, get vacation, (or leave the kids), and will live for two weeks out of a backpack.  Every ounce of the two pieces of checked luggage (back then you were allowed two pieces free and each of them could weigh 70 pounds) was devoted to items that we would give away.  We didn’t trade back then, just went into the villages and dumped bags full of gifts on some tables the villagers had scrounged up from the school.

Some time I may tell you how I came about to a change of philosophy about the difference between outright gifts and trading, but that, also, is a story for another time.

One evening toward the end of my stay at Napo, Erlin pulled me aside with my guide, Armando.  He talked to Armando a bit and then Armando turned to me and translated.

“Erlin says he owns nothing of value.  He is, after all, just a poor shaman.  But he wants you to know how much he appreciates what you are doing for his people so he is offering you the only thing he owns.”

At this point Erlin reached into his pocket and pulled out a small pink stone about the size of a mis-shapened marble and held it out for me to take.  He then gave instructions to Armando who passed them on to me.  Take this home and turn it into an amulet and it will keep you well.

I have received many gifts in my life, some of them requiring great sacrifice of time or money.  But, never before, (outside of Jesus’ sacrificial death on the cross) have I ever been give everything a person owned.

Erlin’s generosity touched me deeply.  I carefully wrapped the stone and put it in a special pouch and carried it on my person for the remaining eight days of the trip.  I brought the stone home and took it to a jeweler.  He looked at it and ran a few tests and was saddened to inform me that it was just a cheap dyed agate.

Cheap?  Not to me.  Even if it has little monetary value in this country, I will always remember Erlin, the man who gave me his most precious possession.  I had it turned into an amulet and bought a gold chain to put it on.

I consistently wear only three pieces of jewelry; a gold cross my husband gave me before I left for Russia, my wedding rings and Erlin’s stone.  Every time I see its reflection in the mirror or roll over on it at night I pat it and think of Erlin, my friend.  May I someday be worthy of his sacrifice.

Gift Three  The Smile

2007 Peru Crew 5

By 2007 I felt we needed to add something else to our itinerary.  We still visited 10 or so villages each year, this time trading our way along.  This year we added visits to two orphanages when we were in the city of Iquitos.

We were warmly greeted by Magdalena and most of the assembled children at Santa Monica.  It was what my teacher self would call controlled chaos.  Balloons were flying everywhere, some were singing, others dancing.

In the middle of this cacophony was a tiny figure, a forlorn little tyke strapped into a miniature wheelchair.  His wraithlike frame drooped.  His head sunk down till his chin was touching his chest.  His left eye was covered with a thick bandage; his right without focus.

I turned to my long suffering guide Armando and asked him to go and find out if it would hurt him if I were to pick him up.  He turned and was gone a long time.  When he returned he said, “They tell me not to waste your time.  He won’t respond to you.”

I then invaded Armando’s personal space.  I put my face a mere few inches from the end of his nose, drew my brows down, squinched up my eyes, pointed my finger in his face and in my best teacher voice, growled, “I didn’t ask if he would respond, I asked if it would HURT him.  Now go find out!

He skedaddled and returned in just moments.

“No, Pachita, it won’t hurt him.”

I walked slowly toward him and knelt in front of his chair.  I began to talk softly to him while I undid many of the buckles that held him in place.  When he was free from the restraints I gently lifted him.  He was so frail, his arms and legs terribly thin, his skin appeared as thin as paper.

For the next few minutes we danced and sang and spun.  I was outrageous, over the top, expansive.  I glanced in his little face once and saw what I thought was a little interest in the eye I could see.  He began to rest easier in my arms.  More frenetic movement.  Then I laughed aloud, not a giggle or chuckle, and out and out guffaw!

I looked down and Jair, for that was his name, was smiling.  For all I know for the first time in his young life.  My heart melted.  If I never did another thing, not one, nothing could ever match the magic of that moment.  He was still smiling a few minutes later when I boarded our bus.

A puppy.  A stone.  A smile.    Simple, profound, life changing.

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This and That

Pam and Sintia wouldn’t let me pay for any motocars or meals the entire two days I was in Iquitos and Pam was able to get me a reduced rate at the hotel.  I was in the air at exactly 5 PM, designated take off time. 

For the first time in years I had a window seat.I looked out the window just as the sun was setting.  By the time I looked out the was a blood red semicircle on the horizon.  In just a few moments the sun was completely hidden.  All that remained were red and pink, maroon and rose streaks across the sky, a masterpiece, painted by the Master’s Hand.

This and That

1.  Because of your ineptitude and inability to blow up your neck pillow for the plane, make sure that the wonderful person who offers to blow it up for you only puts half the air in it you think is necessary.  Otherwise you wind up with a pillow that is way too hard, but makes a great cushion between your head and the cold, cold window. 

2.  Allow more time than you think is necessary to clear customs; just in case the ticket agent, who is having a bad day, (because his boss yelled at him when he first came on duty,) disappears for HALF AN HOUR  WITH YOUR PASSPORT! without explanation!

3.  NEVER  lose the bottom portion of the customs declaration before exiting the country.

4.  Bring more money than you think you will need.

 

5.  Try new things, especially food!

6.  Never be far away from your Pepto tablets.  See number 5.

7.  Keep your purse close in the city.

8.  Hug every child and most adults., especially downriver.

9. NEVER let a foreign computer tech anywhere near the network settings on your laptop, even if you have to walk five blocks to the nearest internet café!

10.  Hang around with people who make you laugh.

11. Go to the restroom whenever you have the chance.  Do NOT wait till you have to go.  Trust me.

 

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Special Needs

We left the hotel for the first special needs school just before 9 AM.  After we were transported across the city by a crazed motorcar driver, we arrived at our first school.

This school works with 26 special needs students ages birth through five years.  These kids all have some kind of physical and/or mental disability.  In the US we call this early intervention.  One tiny girl wore an even tinier hat.  She was just a few months old and the hat disguised the surgery she had just had for hydrocephalous.  She had also had spinal surgery.  She had no movement or feelings in her legs and from the scar on her back I assumed she was afflicted with spina bifida.  But, what a happy child!  She never stopped smiling.

Then there was this slightly older girl who has cerebral palsy and a seizure disorder.  She has at least one seizure every day.  The doctors had told the mother to not be surprised if this child simply did not get up one morning.

There were a number of Down Syndrome children and many with cerebral palsy.  They are currently working out of a tiny group of four rooms that were once administrative offices.  People who were displaced by the flood are occupying the schoolrooms. 

I asked if there was anything they needed specifically.  They could use a big therapy ball, a play pool filled with little balls and a wooden structure with steps going up one side and a ramp coming down the other.

None of those things will fit in my suitcase.  But, Pam had a great idea.  Sometimes Conapac has special service projects.  Maybe I could provide the materials and a service group could build this piece of equipment and deliver it to the school!  I love it when a plan comes together!

After a couple of hours there we hailed another motorcar driver who has even more suicidal tendencies than the first.  He took us to the next school.  This school works with students from kindergarten through young adults age 20.  There were 80 students at this school.  We spent a couple of heart wrenching hours there.

Before we all go to bed tonight, we should get down on our knees and thank God for our health and the health of our children.

 

 

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Special Needs

We left the hotel for the first special needs school just before 9 AM.  After we were transported across the city by a crazed motorcar driver, we arrived at our first school.

This school works with 26 special needs students ages birth through five years.  These kids all have some kind of physical and/or mental disability.  In the US we call this early intervention.  One tiny girl wore an even tinier hat.  She was just a few months old and the hat disguised the surgery she had just had for hydrocephalous.  She had also had spinal surgery.  She had no movement or feelings in her legs and from the scar on her back I assumed she was afflicted with spina bifida.  But, what a happy child!  She never stopped smiling.

Then there was this slightly older girl who has cerebral palsy and a seizure disorder.  She has at least one seizure every day.  The doctors had told the mother to not be surprised if this child simply did not get up one morning.

There were a number of Down Syndrome children and many with cerebral palsy.  They are currently working out of a tiny group of four rooms that were once administrative offices.  People who were displaced by the flood are occupying the schoolrooms. 

I asked if there was anything they needed specifically.  They could use a big therapy ball, a play pool filled with little balls and a wooden structure with steps going up one side and a ramp coming down the other.

None of those things will fit in my suitcase.  But, Pam had a great idea.  Sometimes Conapac has special service projects.  Maybe I could provide the materials and a service group could build this piece of equipment and deliver it to the school!  I love it when a plan comes together!

After a couple of hours there we hailed another motorcar driver who has even more suicidal tendencies than the first.  He took us to the next school.  This school works with students from kindergarten through young adults age 20.  There were 80 students at this school.  We spent a couple of heart wrenching hours there.

Before we all go to bed tonight, we should get down on our knees and thank God for our health and the health of our children.

 

 

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Life in the City

We arrived back in the thriving, ever evolving, city of Iquitos after lunch.  Most of the group left for the airport shortly afterwards.  But, Therese had three hours or so to kill so she went with me when I checked into a new hotel.  This hotel is not only new to me, but new to the city as well.

It is about five blocks from the main city square, Plaza de Armes.  I checked in with just a couple of items, but they would not let me carry them up myself.  After we freshened up a bit, I took Therese out to see a little of the town and drop off a small load of laundry at the laundramat I have been using for years.  I took her to the Anaconda Market to look for some trinkets to take home to her family.

The instant we set foot out of the hotel, there was Michael!  I know he has inside information about when some of his special clients come.

“Pachita!”

“Michael!”

Michael offered immediately to take us for a ride in his motor taxi.  No thanks, I told him, I wanted to show my friend the town.  Not about to let a sale out of his sight, he grabbed my bag of laundry from me and off the three of us headed for the laundramat, where for $4 they will wash, dry and fold all my dirty clothes.

On our way down the street we were loudly greeted from a trio of vendors with whom I have become acquainted over the last several years. They are not quite as agressive as Michael when I promised them I would return in June.  (Watch out, Peru Crew!)

We dropped of my laundry and headed back along the river.  This striking young woman, wearing a backpack raced across the park and flung her arms around me, “Pachita, my mother!”)  I have know Victoria since she was just a street urchin peddling her wares.  I always buy 100 friendship bracelets from her.  She is 15 now and absolutely stunning!

I bought a few postcards and Therese and I stopped for a pitcher of frozen lemonade.  Michael stayed with us.  As we sipped away he brought out his wares.  I have no money, I told him.  So his price came down.  I am not nearly the push over I used to be, but I still have a soft heart (and some would say a soft head.)  I finally relented enough to buy $20 worth of jewelry.

We came back to the hotel where I spent most of the rest of the evening trying to connect tothe internet.  No signel.  The tech even came to my room and switched a lot of settings.  I have no idea what he did to my settings.  He gave up finally.  And when I came down to see Therese off I discovered two public computers off the lobby.  That is where I currently sit.

This morning my computer has found the signal, but cannot connect because the settings are not correct!

Blessings on you, all my friends.

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Immediately, if not Sooner!

I’m glad I decided to go. The group was going to Indiana this morning. I’ve been to Indiana, many times. But when we left the dock, we turned right and headed up river, instead of turning the left and heading down river. I was confused. We traveled about 10 minutes and came to this little place where a lot of canoes were moored.

We waited our turn and nosed into the port. We disembarked in single file, of course. Then we walked across this series of slippery, muddy, narrow boards. I could just see myself landing butt first in the muddy Amazon. I nearly did too. But, by a combination of fancy footwork and outstanding balance work and made it and arrive on my feet and amazingly dry. TADA!

This was someplace I have never been before. But, I was greeted by name by a man from one of the nearby villages. “Pachita!” He was from Timicuro I. Here was a market I have never dreamed of! Much like Belen in Iquitos, but on a much smaller, safer scale. I bought a surprise for Peru Crew 10 and a bottle of Inca Cola to drink in the city.

It was absolutely fascinating wandering around. Unfortunately, I saw many of the same meats I have seen in Belen; caiman, tapier and monkey. There were chickens including beaks, heads and feet. And there were fish everywhere of every variety;  catfish, zebra fish and piranha, just to name a few.  There was every imaginable kind of fruit and vegetable in every color of the rainbow.

We saw merchants selling clothes which they buy by the large bale here and spread out on a tarp on the ground. There were booths that had sold cheap trinkets  and toothbrushes and laundry detergent. There was a disco on every corner! We wandered around the main market then we hopped into motorcar for a ride better than any Disney imagineer ever dreamed of!

Everywhere I looked were the most interesting things! There was the little naked girl toddling up from just having had her bath in the river.  One of the man walking along this road was carrying a machete under his arm, but he was still able to blow a kiss to Marcie. There was more than one shack with no door and a leaky roof that had satellite dish.

I saw chickens scratching up whatever they could for their babies and dogs just scratching up whatever they could.

When we got to Indiana, there was a clown performing on a makeshift stage in front of 40 or 50 children. I asked Caesar what was going on and he replied it was a benefit for some of the victims who were flooded out. They were collecting clothes and donations. The spotted the gringos  going past and I assume he was asking us for donations. How can anyone resist that? I went up to put some money in the donation box and they  called me up on stage asked me my name and then asked me if I wanted to say anything to the children I said “I love Peru, I love the children and I love Jesus.”

I have already forgotten so much of what I saw I knew I had get this on my blog immediately, if not sooner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Go Figure

Yesterday was a down day for me.  I didn’t go piranha fishing with the group.  I have been fishing and although I talked our youngest member, Allison, 13, into going I had no desire to go myself.  I stayed around the Lodge.

I checked email and sent a couple.  I said goodbye to many of the workers with a promise to return in June.  I petted and tried to feed the dogs, one of whom is my “grandson.”  Would they eat the little treats I brought? Nooooo.  What did they want?  The stale bread I was feeding to to fish.  The water is so high I can feed them directly from the dining room.

I gave out the last of the hard cover bibles.  All I have left are half a dozen children’s bibles  for the workers at Ceiba Tops, the last lodge on this leg of the journey.

We left the Lodge before lunch and headed up river.  We stopped at Yanamono II for a few minutes to see a functioning water treatment plant.  This is a village I have visited many times.  As a matter of fact we traded there several times.  Somehow, they knew that I was with the Conapac group. I was given a tiny carved turtle and a couple of mangoes.

I recognized many of the folks there.  But, one face jumped out at me.  I tried to figure out why he was so familiar.  It finally came to me!  He is in one of the pictures on a PowerPoint I use often when I speak to various groups.  He is posing with a fire starter he traded for with a smile as big as all outdoors.  I promised to bring him a copy when I return.

We left there and arrived shortly after at Ceiba.  I took more pictures on my way up river at all the flooding than I have taken altogether in the past two years combined.  Once at our destination I was given the key to my room.  There are many people here and only four empty rooms in the whole place. I was given my choice. Any room I wanted including the presidential suite.  Sintia chose for me. She put me in one of the suites. Very nice!

I spent a couple of hours trying to cram all the things from three big plastic totes and two overstuffed suitcases into two suitcases. That’s like trying to make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear. But, I did it!

I found a book  someone had left and read by the pool and listened to the jungle noises. I talked to  my Peruvian friends. What I didn’t do, I realized this morning, was blog. Go figure

It is nearly time for breakfast on my last day on the river. We’re taking a short morning excursion to the little town of Indiana just few minutes away by boat. After lunch we head back into Iquitos where everyone else in the group will get ready to board their planes for home. I have two more nights in the city on my own. It remains to be seen what kind of mischief I can get into.

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